Information / FAQ
Signature Exteriors developed a comprehensive Roofing FAQ page as an educational resource. The FAQ page is just another way to help homeowners have a good experience finding a qualified roofing contractor. Our goal is to help educate homeowners to make a roof repair decision that is truly best for them. Whether it’s using Signature Exteriors as your roofing contractor or not. Our company’s priority is to treat you as we would our neighbor before treating you like a potential sale. Why? Well, because that’s what we’d want for ourselves too.
We reference many different terms during our roof inspection recap. These terms can be confusing if you’re unfamiliar with the details of your roof structure. Signature Exteriors has provided roofing services for over 10 years with the sole mission of providing quality roofing services to customers. To us, that means educating homeowners on standard roofing terms and offering answers to frequently-asked roofing questions.
Our roof inspections are free of charge and include a detailed report and, if applicable, a free estimate for your roof repairs!
Our roofing specialists perform comprehensive evaluations of your home’s roofing, gutter, and siding inspections. We take many photos and put together a detailed report and a free estimate! After the inspection, we’ll walk you through our findings and answer any questions you have.
For our certified inspectors to perform the most accurate and comprehensive roof inspection, we recommend providing interior access to check attic space, a vital part of the evaluation.
Hail damage on roofs can cause dents, tears, and granule loss to shingles. Identifying hail damage to a roof often requires a physical inspection of the roofing system. Your homeowners’ insurance covers hail damage. Click here to schedule an appointment.
The quickest way to give you an accurate and fair quote on your roofing, gutters, or siding is to have our inspector complete their onsite inspection of your property. We do this to ensure that we account for all required materials and measurements before providing you with a quote.
It’s crucial to hire a roofing professional that is both licensed and insured. Another important item to consider is how long the contractor has been in business and what their customers say about them.
We stake our reputation on providing high-quality roof repairs and offer a workmanship warranty with all services.
We wrote an in-depth article in our blog titled: “Should I repair or replace my roof,” if you’re looking for more information.
Once your project is complete, we’ll send you your invoice electronically. We accept checks, credit cards, and debit card payments. Ask your Signature Exteriors representative if there is a processing fee associated with the method of payment you select.
Unfortunately, there isn’t a single set price for a roof replacement (and there shouldn’t be, so be wary of contractors offering such a deal). The cost of a new roof depends on the square footage, roof pitch, and the type of roof material selected. It’s essential to have a qualified roofing contractor perform an inspection so they can provide you with an accurate roof replacement quote.
On average, a residential roof replacement can take 1-2 days, except for larger roofs which typically take 3-4 days to complete. Our operations team will provide an accurate estimate of how long your roof replacement will take after we conduct your free roof inspection.
There are a lot of factors that influence the cost of a shingle roof vs. a metal roof. Most roofing materials are priced by the square (100 square feet) or the bundle (33.3 square feet). Asphalt shingle averages $80 – $120 per square before installation, whereas metal often ranges from $300 – $400 per square.
On top of the material cost, there is also the cost of labor (unless you’re a DIY-er). Depending on your area and local demand, labor costs can average around $200 – $300 per square to install asphalt shingle material onto your home. In contrast, metal roofing labor costs can range from $300 – $500 per square foot.
To get an accurate quote for your home, contact a local roofing contractor with experience in metal roofing to put together a comprehensive quote.
We wrote an in-depth article outlining how to prepare for a roof replacement!
- Remove fragile items from your walls: think pictures, mirrors, anything shakey on your shelves. The vibrations from roof replacements can often cause objects to fall from hangers.
- Clear the perimeter of your home: think patio furniture, barbeques, plants, sculptures.
- Prepare for noise: There will be constant hammering on your roof during your roof replacement.
- Parking: Park your car on the street or a nearby cul-de-sac so the materials may be delivered.
- Work Area: Keep children and pets away from the immediate work areas until the cleanup crews have finished sweeping for debris and nails.
- Cleaning: Our crews use the most up-to-date cleaning equipment such as rolling magnets, pin magnets, and metal detectors. Stubborn nails may remain hidden in brush and grass around the home. Please exercise caution for a few days after your roof replacement.
- Material Removal: We will send more material than is noted on your contract. Our goal is to ensure that we can complete your project promptly, so we send extra material to account for any unexpected hiccups (damaged shingles, etc.). We will have this material removed by our supplier within 1-3 days after your roof replacement.
Roof insurance claims vary depending on the insurance carrier and the storm damage (wind & hail) on your roof. We recommend checking your policy to see what your insurance provider covers. We will do everything we can to identify any storm damage, provide pictures and documentation, attend the adjuster meeting with your insurance carrier to ensure they’re documenting everything correctly. Having a Signature Exteriors representative present gives you the best chance for an approved roof insurance claim!
We work with all home insurance providers. Our in-house roof insurance claims specialists will make sure that the claim will cover any related damages so you can restore your home to its pre-loss condition.
Residential Roofing FAQ
Asphalt shingle roofing is the most common and, generally, the least expensive roofing material. Asphalt shingles are durable, reliable, and relatively inexpensive. They offer a wide variety of colors and styles, ease of installation, and they’re suitable for different climates and weather patterns. Asphalt shingle roofs should last about 20 years on average.
There are two general types of asphalt shingle roofs: 3-tab shingle and architectural shingle.
3-tab shingle vs Architectural shingle
3-tab shingle: composed of 1 flat layer and do not have a dimensional look. 3-tab shingles cost less than architectural but typically have a shorter life span.
Architectural Shingle: shingle tabs with various sizes and shapes and are thicker than 3-tab shingles. Generally a bit more expensive but offered with a longer life-span.
Residential roofs can also be made of tile, wood, slate, and metal.
Metal roofing and asphalt shingle roofing typically have different installation costs due to the material. Installation costs are generally higher with any metal, tile, or slate roofing but they offer a much longer life span.
Types of Metal Roofing: Aluminum, Copper, Corrugated Metal, Metal Tile, Metal Slate, Standing Seam, Steel, Tin, and more.
Types of Shingle Roofing: Asphalt 3-tab Shingles, Asphalt Archictectural Shingles, Coal & Tar Shingles, Clay Shingles, Concrete Shingles, and more.
We wrote an in-depth article on the difference between shingle roof vs metal roof!
Most new residential roofing systems are designed with a life-span of 20-30 years. This varies depending on the type of shingle you select. The lifespan of a roof also varies depending on the quality of the material and the installation.
As shingles age they can show discoloration or streaking. Often seen on portions of the roof that receive less sunlight, these streaks are typically caused by algae growth. Discoloration or streaking is often just an aesthetic concern and does not always impact the life-span or waterproofing characteristics of your roof.
Although some do, we don’t recommend installing new shingle over the old shingle roof system. This practice is typically not covered by warranty, can cause unusual shaping, and it makes it impossible to inspect the decking underneath for rotting or deterioration.
A pitched roof is a roof with a sloping surface or surfaces. For a complete guide on different pitched roof types, check out our blog!
Commercial Roofing FAQ
Flat roofs are one of the most common types of roof for commercial buildings. Typically, building and re-roofing flat roofs is more cost effective than building or re-roofing other types of commercial roofing. There are many types of flat roofing materials such as EPDM, TPO, Modified Bitumen, and Built-Up Roofing.
Maintenance and drain cleaning is easiest on flat roofs since there is no pitch, they can walk easily and safely regardless of weather conditions.
Flat roofs experience a common issue with poor drainage since there is no pitch on the roof for water to run off. Standing water on flat roofs is a common cause for leaks on commercial buildings.
Often found on warehouses, factories, and apartment buildings. Low-slow roofing can appear flat but does have a slight pitch compared to commercial flat roofing. Low-sloped roofing for commercial buildings is designed to allow for water runoff. Low-sloped roofing materials often include EPDM, TPO, and Modified Bitumen.
There is no one roof system that works best for all applications. The answer to this varies on your specific building structure. Manufacturers for low-sloped roofing may not offer warranties on their material so it’s critical you work with a professional roofing contractor to get a detailed proposal for your unique flat roofing needs.
Our technicians are certified in EPDM, TPO, and modified bitumen.
Commercial roofing maintenance requires routine checks of sealant, membranes, caulking, and flashing.
If you’re noticing major water damage or interior staining, you should notify your local roofing professional immediately. In general, we recommend inspecting your commercial roof after a large storm, before any severe weather, and at the change of each season.
Getting debris like leaves and twigs out of your gutter system is crucial for them to retain functionality. Debris can cause clogs, cracks, and holes in the gutter system. It’s generally recommended to clean your gutters atleast twice a year (Spring and Fall), but we recommend doing so more frequently if your gutters are located near trees or after a heavy storm.
Gutter cleaning can be made easier by installing gutter guards.
We always recommend homeowners have a functioning gutter system on their home as they’re built to re-route water away from your siding and foundation. They are essential to divert water away from your home and, if left neglected, can cause basement flooding, foundation issues, and even mold!
On average, gutter installation costs $4 to $9 per linear foot depending on the type of gutter material. However, not all gutter cost quotes are created equal. The price of gutter installation can vary depending on the size of the home and any other accessories you’re needing. As always, to get the most accurate quote, reach out to your local roofing and gutter contractor for a free estimate!
The best gutter material varies depending on your budget, climate, and if you want to add any flare to your home. Standard vinyl gutters are typically the most inexpensive option while copper tends to be the most expensive. Most homewoners opt for aluminum gutter material which has a mid-price point while still offering durability and decorative elements.
With proper care and maintenance, most gutters last between 15-20 years without needing any replacement. Copper gutters have a lifespan of up to 50 years! Small holes or cracks can often be sealed but if you’re noticing multiple areas with gutter damage, it may be time to opt for a new gutter system.
A gutter guard is any piece that attaches to the gutter and prevents unwanted material such as pine needles, leaves, and branches from entering the gutter system. Gutter guards prevent clogs and cracks in your gutters.
A type of roof shingle that uses asphalt for waterproofing. It’s the most commonly used shingle in the United States and has a lifespan of 20-30 years.
The flashing located at the juncture of the top of the sloped roof and a vertical wall or steeper-sloped roof. Used at transitions such as a dormer or chimney.
An asphalt shingle that provides a dimensional appearance due to the various shapes and sizes of the shingle tabs. Tend to cost slightly more than 3-tab shingles.
A roofing term referencing the published regulations prescribing procedures and construction details for structures.
A low-slope or flat roof covered with alternating layers of roofing felt and hot-mopped asphalt and topped off with a layer of gravel.
An individual package of shingles. Each bundle includes enough shingle to cover 33.3 sqft of roof area. 1 bundle is typically enough for 1 sheet of roof decking.
A material used to seal joints or seams against leakage in various structures.
The wood or metal finishing at ends or edges of building, including a fascia or rake.
The flashing that’s applied to the masonry wall designed to shed water off of the wall and down to the roof surface.
Horizontal rows of shingles or tiles. A course of shingle describes how the shingle was attached to the decking underneath and varys depending on the shingle type.
The surface, like plywood or OSB (oriented strand board), that roofing materials are applied to. They are the strength that holds the entire roof together.
The structure that projects from a sloped roof, usually with a window. These are commonly used to increase the usable space within the home.
An L-shaped strip, usually made of metal, that is installed along roof edges to help control the flow of water away from the fascia and to protect the underlying roofing components.
What is a roof eave? Roof eaves, or house eaves, describe the roof sections or edges which extend out over your home’s exterior walls and are made up of two main components – the fascia and the soffit.
An extremely durable synthetic rubber membrane (ethylene propylene diene monomer), used on low-slope and flat roofs. EPDM roofing is available in both black and white and varying thickness.
A roofing term defining the wooden boards that run along the lower edge of the roof that most gutter systems are fixed to and, in certain circumstances, the fascia board is used to support the bottom row of tiles or slates.
A sheet of asphalt-saturated material (often called tar paper) that is used as a secondary layer of protection for the roof decking. It’s applied underneath all other roofing materials and serves as an added layer of protection.
A roofing term describing the system for classifying the fire resistances of various materials. Roofing materials are rated Class A, B or C, with Class A materials having the highest resistance to fire originating outside the structure.
A roofing term for the materials fitted around chimneys, air vents and valleys on the roof to provide an airtight and waterproof seal against moisture.
In residential roofing, a horizontal (or angled, if installed on gables) trim board installed flat against the wall which covers the gap between the top of the siding and the soffit.
A gable is the generally triangular portion of a wall between the edges of intersecting roof pitches. The shape of the gable depends on the structural system used.
Small pieces of different colored rock that are coated onto an asphalt shingle using a tar-like substance that give asphalt shingles their visible texture.
The channels along the eaves, or edges, of your roof that collect and direct water to the nearest downspout which directs this water away from your home and foundation.
A roofing term to describe a material used to keep debris from infiltrating your home’s gutter systems while still allowing the run-off water to filter through.
Also called gutter slope, is the amount the gutter tilts down to let rainwater flow out of it.
The external angle at the junction of two sides of a roof whose supporting walls adjoin.
In a flat roof, a horizontal structural member over which decking is nailed.
A laced valley, or woven valley, is a continuous run of shingles where two sloping roofs meet.
Slatted devices installed in a gable or soffit (the underside of eaves) to ventilate the space below a roof deck.
A roofing term to describe any vents, pipes, stacks, chimneys-anything that penetrates a roof deck.
A roofing term to describe the structural wood, usually slanted, to which the decking is attached.
Rake of a Roof
Rake of a roof is the slanting edges of a gabled roof extending beyond the end wall of the house. Rake boards cover the top edge of your siding.
The horizontal line at the top edge of two sloping roof planes. This is the highest point on the roof.
The rigid material (also referred to as decking) which is nailed to the rafters and to which shingles are secured.
Shingle flashing is flashing that is laid in strips under each shingle and bent up the edge of a chimney or wall.
The number of inches of vertical rise in a roof per 12-inches of horizontal distance (also referred to as pitch).
The area that encloses the underside of that portion of the roof that extends out beyond the sidewalls of the house.
One hundred square feet of roof, or the amount of roofing material needed to cover 100sqft when properly applied.
A truss provides additional strength and support to your roof’s rafters. They are typically made of steel or wood.
The material (usually roofing felt) laid on top of sheathing before shingles are applied.
Where two sloping roof sections come together. Shingles in the valley are cut in a “V” direction exposing the valley flashing fabric.
The metal or fabric in valleys, extending in under the shingles on both sides.